I had a predetermined vision of Chile: the world’s southernmost stretch of civilization, seven climates from desert to ice caps, a folkloric, immaterial Eden where water and air might as well be wine and song. I still suspect that’s true—but the city’s people had bigger plans for themselves. (That last sentence makes me proud of Chileans.)
About three weeks before we left, the country began showing signs of civil unrest. By the time we were ready to fly, a million people were in the streets. It started over a subway fare hike and the rising cost of living. A thirty-year-old art teacher summed it up best: “We can’t return to normality—we haven’t achieved anything yet. The reforms the government is proposing are superficial and do not solve the deeper problems—it is not about 30 pesos, it is about 30 years of abuse of power.”
President Piñera reshuffled his cabinet, dismissing Interior Minister Andrés Chadwick. On November 15, most parties in the National Congress agreed to call an April 2020 referendum on drafting a new constitution. “In an April 2020 plebiscite, Chileans will be able to vote on whether they want a new constitution and whether it should be drafted by a mixed citizen-legislator convention or one comprised entirely of elected citizens. More than 80 percent of Chileans support a new constitution, according to recent polls.”
To be determined. Anything involving the redistribution of power and money is always “to be determined,” usually by the people trying to keep both.
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Argentina
I’ve read that Buenos Aires is the “Paris of the South.” Comparisons are subjective, but they do help people decide what to try—music, art, travel, restaurants. The phrase is catchy, and I wondered how it came to be.
“Argentina didn’t gain its European flair during its era under Spanish rule. After independence in 1816, Argentines didn’t want to employ their former colonizers. Instead, they looked to visionaries from other European countries—France and Italy—to design their capital.”
The city is everything I imagined and more: culinary mastery, world-renowned wines, and a European atmosphere intertwined with vibrant Latin American roots. Most surprising was how welcoming it felt. It didn’t feel like a vacation. Unlike Paris—regal, romantic, majestic—I didn’t feel like I needed to ask permission for anything. It felt like home.
Argentine children smiled a lot. They looked more loved than in many places I’ve been (as silly as that sounds). There was a photographic quality to families there—a strong sense of structure. Lovely to be around.
There were dog walkers everywhere. I don’t know why the chaotic tangle of leashes feels so sweet. A reverse Christmas tree of panting tongues—sniffing, peeing, smiling, happy to belong. Most dogs are like that. Most people, too—though fewer sniff each other’s butts in public. Most.
Cars rule pedestrians. Traffic signals appear mainly at big intersections. No lights, stop signs, or yields on many corners, and pavement markings read like suggestions. Outside the car, Argentines are kind; behind the wheel, they Tetris their way to the front. Pedestrians lack the right of way even with a walk signal. You watch the turning cars, because they may not stop.
Smoking still seems popular. I’m amazed it’s popular anywhere, including Paris. Once information is available, excuses are personal. I saw some people frown and fan the air—not near me—and while I’m an ex-smoker from a lifetime ago, the only thing I’ll say is: smoking will kill you, and fanning the air makes you look funny.
Most surprisingly, music still matters there. Considering it’s my livelihood, it blew my mind how passionately South America loves music. I don’t just mean professionals—I mean passion. Lustful concern. Avid, fierce desire to get it right, often for very few people. (Yes, covers.) I saw a band play for eleven people with more conviction than most show a hundred. It took me back to childhood—wetting my hair, grabbing an ax handle, and rocking to Kiss Alive II in my bedroom. In my current world, music is also a business—goals, style, expectations, image, pay. Remove curiosity and conviction changes. Then you change. True for most things in life. The more you know, the harder you have to work to keep it fresh. For a city of nearly three million, Buenos Aires still plays with passion, curiosity, and innocence. It was beautiful.
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Brazil
My knowledge of Rio before visiting was “The Girl from Ipanema,” “Copacabana,” and Carnival. Two out of three ain’t bad?
At first glance, Rio’s natural and constructed contrasts are gorgeous. One block hums with beachy vibrance; the next unveils historic mountainscapes. Then, favelas in between.
A favela is a low-income, largely unregulated neighborhood long neglected by the state—no zoning, little oversight, few public services. Recycled tiles on flimsy shacks, illegal power extensions, blue water cisterns.
“Geography is destiny” fascinates me. What were you born into?
I read about a ten-foot fence along the highway from the international airport. Behind it, Maré—sixteen favela communities, many under gang control. Explanations vary: sound barrier, “welcoming wall” for the 2016 Olympics, or a way to hide an eyesore. My taxi driver, Mario, put it plainly: during rush hour, thieves walked onto the highway and robbed people at gunpoint. Everywhere has class divisions, but this may be the starkest I’ve seen—extreme wealth and poverty stacked together. Some favelas have views rivaling the high-rises. Digging deeper, I found something inspiring: many communities created and elected their own leadership—cities within cities, for the people, off the grid, on their own. I could spend a week on socio-economic abandonment and the basic roles of government, but it’s not my place.
I went to my first Brazilian football match—67,000 people singing the entire time. Cheering, screaming, tossing beers—in-fucking-sane. Flamengo vs. Ceará. I’m told I was lucky: they won. Brazil is the only team to play in every World Cup, and they are crazy about the sport. I’ve never been to war, but it felt like the beginning of one: ten people, then fifty, then thousands—disorderly, nervous energy cresting in waves, then sudden pandemonium. Screaming. Celebration. I felt like a dog who keeps peeing on the carpet when everyone’s looking. But I wasn’t. Sort of.
Taxi drivers harbor real disdain for Uber drivers—class disgust, though taxis do well. They hate delivery bikes even more: Uber Eats, iFood, Pedidos Já, Mr. Food. The entire delivery system seems to run on motorcycles, and they’re on the clock. Traffic laws? Optional—even in front of police. Rush hour becomes a symphony of Roadrunner-like meeps in Morse code. Kids on rental bicycles delivering food added to the spectacle. Everyone hustles. I respect that.
Portuguese is harder than I expected—or maybe people were harder on my attempts. Everyone was polite, so I’ll say both. Google Translate struggled—vowels and consonants off, pronunciation misleading. Locals helped me more than the app. The language sounds laced with French. Locals insist it doesn’t. Au contraire sounds French to me. Ah, bem.
I still don’t understand the cheek-kiss greeting. It feels as odd as saying “bless you” after a sneeze. In South America, it’s real. I had to read more.
- One kiss: Colombia, Argentina, Chile, Peru, the Philippines
- Two kisses: Spain, Italy, Greece, Germany, Hungary, Romania, Croatia, Bosnia, Brazil (like France, it varies by region), and some Middle Eastern countries (though not between opposite sexes)
- Three kisses: Belgium, Slovenia, North Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia, the Netherlands, Switzerland, Egypt, and Russia (often with a bear hug)
“…touch cheeks and administer an air kiss—a soft smacking sound, as opposed to the more bombastic mwah!—forgoing any actual exchange of saliva.”
Superstitious, ritualistic customs make me feel weird. When forced into a quick kiss hello, I don’t make the noise. I’m not fake lip-smackin’ for anyone.
Cars rule pedestrians here too. (Insert the same paragraph from Buenos Aires.) Still, I saw three different buses stop for someone running to catch them. Maybe not standard practice, but nothing beats those small victories. I love when the bus waits. I hope everyone’s bus waits.
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Many people tell stories until those stories become their truths.
“When your beliefs are entwined with your identity, changing your mind means changing your identity. This is why facts don’t change minds.”
We see what we want to see, hear what we want to hear, believe what we want to believe. It’s a survival mechanism to shield us from our greatest fear—the truth. The terrifying possibility that maybe it’s all for nothing. Maybe it’s a symbolic separation from our parents, fantasy over reality, aloneness, personal or spiritual evolution, responsibility, mortality.
We demand perfection from others while lacking the self-reflection to refine ourselves. We work, save, purchase, and hope—expecting our nest-egg dreams to come true. We pray that life will resemble the fairytale in our heads. (Read that again.) But even the wealthiest can’t buy perfection, avoidance, or a way around life. Prayer won’t change outcomes; it may ease your path, but divine intervention isn’t for sale.
The sooner we realize it’s going to be okay—regardless of outcome—the sooner we accept what is. The sooner we become happy, always, no matter what happens. We’re fragile and doing our best. A little self-acceptance goes a long way.
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People often ask, “How do you travel to so many places without speaking the language?” I joke about Google Translate (though Portuguese isn’t its strong suit). It saves me daily, but the real answer is simpler: a little effort and a lot of humility. Try to fit in. Try to speak the language. Show effort. Be ready to say sorry—a lot. Show, with your actions, that you’re grateful to be wherever you are. Remember you represent the next stranger who shows up. Be of the earth, not merely on it. Look people in the eyes with respect. I’ve yet to find any currency that spends more freely than respect.
If you knew someone would inherit your place on this marble and pick up exactly where you left off, wouldn’t you try harder to leave a kinder, more refined legacy? That’s how I feel about travel. I didn’t purchase the right to bulldoze through foreign lands. I was afforded a rite of passage. Revocation is up to the locals.
To be determined—this time by the people who actually wield the power. Fortunately, I’m only trying to keep my memories.